We paddled into a secret passageway through a dense area of mangrove
trees and came out on the other side where our mother boat was waiting
to take us back to the hotel.

and welcoming; I have never experienced any place where there was such a sense of calm and peace.

The next morning, as we said goodbye to our new village friends, I asked myself: Why did we go halfway around the world for a kayaking adventure? These islands truly are paradise. And spending a week with my son, along with other parents and their kids from all parts of the United States, will be one of my most cherished memories. But the most important thing we shared was a week with our families where we were guests of the people of Fiji, seeing the world through their eyes. While I was there we forgot about computers, cell phones, deals and deadlines… We were all adventurers on a trip of a lifetime.

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by the elders in a kava-drinking ceremony — very relaxing, but not that tasty. Looking down the rain-fed Luva River, the route did not appear as peaceful as our previous days of river adventure. I was suddenly afraid of turning over and not being able to return to an upright position. But our guide, Bruce, assured

me that he would stay near me and, although there were a few anxious moments as we went through narrow chutes in churning white water, I was able to keep my craft stable.

Early in the afternoon we landed outside the village of Nakavika, home of one of our guides. Matthew and I

enjoyed the traditional lovo dinner, which was cooked by our hosts from hot stones in the ground. We were then invited to the third-gen-eration chief’s house, where we asked questions about the past and the future. Their tribe’s history includes tales of fierce warriors, but the people were so friendly

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Bob McElwee is the publisher of Modern Traveler. He has published numerous travel books and is developing a responsible tourism destination called the Green Mill Village in Illinois.